Huye

Huye, long known as Butare, is the academic town of Rwanda and the quietest of its cities, laid out under old trees around the national university. The Ethnographic Museum here is the best in the country, a Belgian built hall of basketry, ironwork, drums and housebuilding that explains more about Rwanda than anything in the capital. Students fill the cafes and the craft cooperatives sell the tight woven agaseke baskets. Murambi, half an hour west at Gikongoro, is a genocide memorial where the victims themselves are preserved, and it is the hardest place to visit in Rwanda.